Places to see: Bolsover Castle

Bolsover Castle

Perched high on a Derbyshire hilltop, Bolsover castle can be seen from miles away. Originally a medieval fortress built in the 12th century by the Peverel family; later purchased by Sir George Talbot (who was Mary Queen of Scots keeper and husband of Bess of Hardwick), it was sold to the Sir Charles Cavendish (son of Bess of Hardwick) in 1608. There have been many turbulent episodes in the castle's history; civil wars, periods of desolation and near destruction - and it was eventually given to the care of the English Heritage in 1945 by the 7th Duke of Portland.

Charles's son, William Cavendish was a writer, a courtier and a flamboyant playboy who enjoyed a lavish lifestyle. When he inherited the property from his father, he set about constructing luxurious ornately designed staterooms with exquisite fireplaces and brightly coloured murals.

William Cavendish was responsible for the building of the Terrace Range, the Riding School and the Little Castle - all of which are fabulous in their own right - as you will see, as you follow my trip around this wonderful castle.

Once through the outer gate, you are greeted by the 400 year old copper beech tree.

When you buy a ticket go inside, you are given these useful guides which enable you to learn more about each section of the castle.

The first part you come to is the 17th Century Riding Stable building - where you can book to see horses shows or just wander around the stable building.

The Riding House is really grand, with its stone entrance and rows of windows - something that wasn't done at the time. Even now, it contains the feel of grandeur it had when it was built all those years ago and is still considered to be one of the finest examples of a surviving indoor riding school in England. When it was originally built, it consisted of a tack room, its own forge, and a viewing gallery looking down over the large arena.

The building is full of character - its timber roof with oak beams is most impressive. The gallery now tells the history of equestrianism at the Castle and of the people who have resided there. William Cavendish was an excellent rider, an expert in Menage and taught the young Prince Charles who became Charles 2nd.

The Terrace Range and Long Gallery which overlook the magnificent Derbyshire countryside were once the setting for extravagant parties - filling the halls with music, laughter and colourful costumes. William Cavendish wanted to create state rooms and banqueting halls that would be fit for Royal visits; he had his eye set on becoming King Charles 1st Master of the Horse; and needed an appropriate residence at which to entertain the Royal family. Just imagine the banquets that were held there.

Below the Terrace Range and Long Gallery, a huge complex of kitchens and larders were built, to provide meals for the many guests that would attend these lavish functions. This area is in ruins now, but you can still see the scale of it below floor level.

From the Terrace, you get a magnificent view over Cavendish's Derbyshire.

After experiencing so many ruins of Bolsover Castle, you come to the square Little Castle Keep. Completed in 1616, this building has survived the centuries much better than the rest of the castle - and what a surprise hides behind the red door.....................

Although designed with some features of a Norman Keep, it was never actually built as a Castle Keep - but as a luxurious house, somewhere to entertain guests and throw elaborate parties, behind high walls and away from prying eyes.

After entering the building up the stone steps, the first room you come to is the Ante Room - this would probably have been where the steward greeted the arriving guests.

Next is the Grand Hall with its stone pillars and vaulted ceiling - restored to how it would have looked in the 17th century, and the original fireplace that dates back to 1616.

Noble guests would gather in this room before being taken to the Pillar Parlour or upstairs to see William in his bedchamber. The paintings depicting Hercules overcoming various mythical beasts are shown in the arched areas of the walls just below the spectacular ceiling. Hercules was a symbol of strength and manliness - a virtue that appealed to William Cavendish.

We then have the exquisite Pillar Parlour, originally called the Lower Dining room which was used for intimate dinner parties.

The walls are surrounded by wood panelling has gilded decoration, and the arched is supported by solid white pillars - it is a stunning example of 17th century workmanship. Over the past 40 years English Heritage have restored this room to how it would have looked when the Cavendish family used it.

I absolutely love this room - for me, it is the most memorable part of the whole castle.

William entertained his closest friends here with the quality food and drink, the furnishings would have been luxurious and no expense would have been spared on their pleasure. Delicacies made from sugar and flowers were served as sweets and drinks - in the very best silver or glass goblets.

A servant was employed purely to make napkins into exotic creatures and birds like this one.

Up some stone stairs, you arrive at the Wall Walk. Lands here were given to The Peverel family by William the Conqueror in 1086 and it is thought that the current garden wall has been built on the foundations of where the medieval outer wall stood.

It is a delight to walk around these walls - which resemble castle rampart walls - and admire the garden within as well as the views of the surrounding countryside.

Back into the house and up some more stairs and you arrive at what was described as the grandest room in the Little Castle - The Star Chamber. It was the main chamber for the Cavendish family, where William would have received important guests, where plays and musical performances were carried out. Only family members and their privileged guests would have been allowed to dine in this colourful, flamboyant room.

The furniture would have been of the highest quality and huge tapestries would have adorned the walls - making it a warm, comfortable room to entertain. It was common for ceilings to be painted blue in the 17th century - this signifies heaven; and the stars that are on the blue have been made from lead and gilded with gold leaf. It really is a most ornate room.

Leading off from the Star Chamber is the Marble Closet - which as its name implies, is decorated with (Black) marble. Together with the red wall hangings, although it was striking, I found this room felt quite sinister.

Also on this upper level, is William's bedroom, which appears rather plain compared with the rest of the Castle, but it would have had thick, colourful tapestries hanging on the walls and a fire blazing in the fabulous fireplace. It would have been furnished with the finest pieces, velvet would have hung around his bed and it would have been covered in blankets and a silk quilt - on top of a feather mattress.

From William's bedroom there were 2 closets, the Heaven Closet; with a ceiling painted to depict Christ's ascension into Heaven - with cherubs and angels playing various instruments - surrounding Christ as he ascends towards the light. This is supposed to symbolise divine love - in contrast to the other closet which symbolises physical love.

The Elysium Closet shows the Gods and Goddesses of Ancient Greece rising up through the clouds and depicts a love contrasting that in the other closet.

There are further rooms on the upper floors, which may have been more bedrooms for other family members, as well as several reception rooms - although William often received guests in his own bedroom.

In one of the bedrooms, there are items of clothing that can be worn to take photographs with - to get in the feel of the times.

The centrepiece of the upper floor is the Lantern - a circle of windows above the octagonal room below. It is situated beneath the central turret of the castle allowing as much light as possible into the area below and it would probably have been a very busy area due to its light feel.

Time to start going down the stairs now; to the kitchens in the basement, that would have catered for the exquisite parties that would have been held here. There are many rooms down here, pantries, bread ovens, cellars - as well as the food preparation areas.

These rooms are very well preserved, and it is hard to believe what food came out of these rooms with such basic equipment.

I found this quite fascinating............water (maybe waste water) would have run out of the room through this groove.

Back out into the sunshine and the enclosed gardens. A walk around the pathway along the base of the walls, reveal several rooms built into the thick walls - even containing fireplaces and seating areas.