The Cutty Sark
Arriving at the dockside, you cannot help but to be in awe of this beautiful ship; she was one of the fastest ships of her kind and I was excited at the prospect of boarding this iconic vessel. The Cutty Sark has long been preserved as a museum ship, it is a Grade 1 listed monument and part of the National Historic Fleet. Built in Scotland in 1869, she was named after the witch Nannie Dee in Robbie Burns 1791 poem Tom O'Shanter.
Entering from street level, through the colourful gift shop - you are directed immediately through a new access hole, that has been constructed specifically to enable visitors to arrive On-board - directly into the ship's hold.
Although the ship has been restored following a catastrophic fire in 2007 and a minor fire in 2014; 90% of the ships hull planks are the original timbers - luckily they weren't on site when the fire occurred. All original parts are now painted white so that you can make them out.
The Cutty Sark was built as a Clipper, travelling to China with a cargo of wine, beer and spirits; and returning with a cargo of tea - which had become an essential part of British life. Her hold was crammed with boxes full of tea - black tea rather than green tea - in rather ornate boxes.
Rivalry was fierce amongst the clippers in the 1860's. The first ships returning home, to London, with a cargo of new season's tea, earned their owner top prices and high bonuses. The "Tea Race" as it was known, was followed by everyone, it was reported in all the newspapers and bets were taken on which ship would arrive home first.
The lower hold is also where the anchor and chain are kept - each link is huge (nearly a foot across).
Up the steps to the 'Tween Deck, which doesn't have as much head room. Here you will find holographic pictures, interactive displays as well as information boards.
This is the front section of the ship that was originally designed to sleep 20 men, but after only 2 voyages, it was adapted to store additional cargo. This was because it was too difficult for the men to get up onto deck quickly - especially in an emergency. A new deck house was built on the Main deck for them.
This is how the sails of the Cutty Sark would have looked when she was built for speed on her travels to the Indies and Australia.
When she was used by the Portuguese company later in life, her sails were adjusted to this.
There are many interactive pieces to keep younger ones amused - and movable benches to sit on (they rock like a ship does), you have to take care not to feel disorientated!
With the success of new steam ships, the numbers of tea-clippers making the return trips to China were reduced, so the Cutty Sark began a new career - bringing Australian wool back to London. For just over 10 years she was the fastest ship in the world on this wool journey, returning to London in a record 83 days.
Here you can see at what an angle one of the masts was built at - this was so it didn't snap off as they sped into the wind or battled through storms.
In 1895 the ship was sold to the Portuguese company Ferreira and Co. and continued life as a cargo ship for another twenty seven years.
She was then bought by Wilfred Dowman, a retired Sea Captain who used her as a training ship in Falmouth, Cornwall until his death. She continued in the training regime until 1954 when she was transferred to a permanent dry dock in Greenwich.
Then it is up another short staircase and you are on the Main deck - an immaculately restored area that is so full of character. Some guides are even dressed as characters akin to the ship, telling colourful tales of voyages gone by.
The view from every side of the ship is stunning; the City of London across the Thames one way and historical Greenwich every other direction. You can spend a lot of time just trying to pick out various places on the horizon.
This is one of the Deck houses, where the Ordinary (or Able Seamen) crew would have slept - half the men would have been working on deck, and the other half in the deck house. They worked a watch system of 4 hours on and then 4 hours off.
Each man had his own small, compact bunk with a raised side, to ensure he didn't fall out when the ship was rolling through the crashing waves in turbulent seas.
Then there was the ship's galley, where all the meals were prepared.
And the Carpenters Room - one of the most important people on the ship. If anything broke in a storm etc - the carpenter had to fix it or the ship would have been lost.
The other deck house was for the First Mate, the Bosun, the Sailmaker and Cook.
You are told all about the rigging, shown how to operate the ropes and which rope moves which sail. Hence the saying "Learning the ropes". There are many sayings around the ship like this - which you remember but would not have associated with sailing - look out for them!
It really was a pleasure to stand on the deck and imagine what life on the Cutty Sark would have been like, as she sped around the world - being driven along by the Trade Winds and Ocean currents.
The Ship's wheel is huge - standing at the helm of this power house!
Then to the final Deck house, where the First Mate would have slept and the Captain's cabin is located, and the room where they would have eaten and studied maps - plotting their courses.
Leaving the deck by a steel bridge, you take a final look at the ship before going down the lift to street level and then down another set of stairs to the "Below the Hull Cafe" - the most unusual place to have afternoon tea. The entire copper hull has been enclosed in a huge steel and glass box that supports the ship.
As well as more information boards, there is the world's largest collection of Merchant ships Figure-heads, donated to the Cutty Sark Trust in 1953.
One last look at this marvellous vessel...............
It is easy to reach the Cutty Sark, only being a minute or two walk from the Docklands Light Railway, or you can arrive at Greenwich Pier by one of the scheduled river boats. Greenwich is a delightful place to walk around, with so many attractions; the only problem is - one day is never enough. I have been twice now and can't wait to go back again.
Thank you,
Lynne
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